Where do I start?

Thread in 'Discussion' started by umbrellastyle, 18 Jul 2006.

  1. umbrellastyle

    umbrellastyle Unregistered

    If I want to start getting into high level tetris play, where would I start? I read posts with acronyms and words I don't know, and it's just overwhelming.

    What game should I start playing if I want to start getting into serious tetris?

    Heboris sounds pretty good, but I don't know what most of the settings mean, so I don't know what to set to what.


    HELP ME! [​IMG]
     
  2. sihumchai

    sihumchai Unregistered

    Coming from an average Tetris player, but here goes:


    Read Nick's Tetris DS FAQ over gamefaqs.com , it has most of the basic needs to get you started on Tetris mayhem.


    Most important, learn how to use double rotation. It saves you time, rather than spinning the piece a couple of times to get to the right orientation.


    Learn how many key-presses you need to get where you want.. For example you want to place the piece in column two, hold left all the way, the one right.


    Use hard drop. Try practicing without the ghost piece, you'll get better.


    With all that being said, it also depends which rule you're playing. If you're playing Tetris DS, then you've got Super Rotation Rule(which is SRS/infinite spin(and World for Heboris)), or ARS(Arika Rotation System, which follows Sega's Tetris rules(which is also what Tetris the Grand Master uses)..


    Both play different in the 'twist' area, read the Tetris wiki and you shall know how it works.

    _________________________


    I see you want to play 20G mode, as I think you've already seen the video floating around the internet. There's a whole lot of difference when you compare 20G for SRS, and 20G for ARS.


    20G is a term, for 20 grids, meaning that the piece falls 20G as soon as it comes down. The 'well', or the playfield, is made of 10X22 field size.. So that's what it basicly means, instant drop to the ground


    SRS is much easier, as you get to 'throw' over the pieces over the walls with the right rotations, but not in ARS. The wallkick system is not as flexible as SRS, and you need to build properly to ensure the piece and slide, and rotate properly.

    __________________________


    As for Heboris, don't worry about the settings, just get your keys set-up, and play the game, go MASTER mode to see how far you stack up againsts other players and the game itself by ranking.


    Read the Tetris Wiki!
     
  3. umbrellastyle

    umbrellastyle Unregistered

    Awesome, that was just the post I was looking for. [​IMG]
    Thanks a lot, I'm going to get right to it on Heboris. haha


    Is there a list somewhere that defines all the terms? I know most of them, but I still don't know what a few mean. (Shirase mode, most specifically)
     
  4. Give shirase a try... it's quite simple. The screen rises while you play, almost like you're receiving garbage. Except... well, you'll see after a few minutes of play.
     
  5. tepples

    tepples Lockjaw developer

    If you don't like the site that some have called "GayFAGs", the Tetris DS Systems Guide 1.1 is mirrored right here on TC. It's a good document, but its SRS wall kick tables leave a few details unclear.

    By double rotation, do you mean using both the B and A buttons, or do you mean using two buttons that do the same thing (which a few fan games have but no console game in Americas or Europe has), or do you mean using the 180 degree button (which a few fan games have but no console game has)?

    In addition, SRS resets the land->lock countdown whenever you move or rotate a tetromino, resulting in infinite spin.

    What exactly is the difference between easy and master mode?
     
  6. sihumchai

    sihumchai Unregistered

    Whoops, I meant dual-rotation as in turn left, and turn right. This helps much more when you want to do twists.


    Well, in easy/normal mode, the level gain, or speed, is much slower and there's an end to it. Similar to Tetris DS marathon which ends at 200 lines. But for TGM, I can't remember when it ends.


    Master mode, as I know follows the piece drop and line clear level gain.


    Drop 1 piece, 1 level, make 1 line, 1 level. I think about 'level' 400-500 it should be 20G already.


    And it also has a 'break' in one section of the gameplay, after hitting like 10G speed(something like that), it resets back to the level 1 speed, so you can clear up any mistakes/garbages you in your stack. But gains speed very fast again after 100 piece/lines.

    _____________________________________________


    [Edit] Sorry, all my info are half or less correct, because I'm not pro at TGM either.. color_thief might be able to clear things up.

    _____________________________________________


    [Edit2] Also to umbrella style: The ARS system has 3 special systems which only applies to the ARS system(and also LockJaw).. Which is the, Initial Rotation System(IRS), and Initial Hold System(IHS).. and the Grade Recognition System(GRS(?))


    IRS: Example, when a L-piece is about to spawn/fall into the playfield, it's flatside is upwards in the ARS system, by holding one of the rotation buttons, you can change the orientation of the piece before it comes in to play. You use this to play fast(quicker drops, because you already changed the position to what you wanted), and it become MORE important in 20G because of the strict wallkicks.. Try playing 20G/shirase/death in Heboris, and you'll know what I mean, experiment it with both SRS and ARS rules.


    IHS: I'm sure you know about the hold function. This basicly works just like IRS, but instead with the hold piece. Again, before the NEXT piece spawns, you hold the 'hold' button to bring the 'hold piece' into effect first, rather that waiting for the 'next piece' to spawn first.


    GRS: This is master mode, judging by the amount of 'levels' you made, based on 'time', this system will grade you from start: 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7, S8, S9, GM. Getting GM ain't no easy task, I'm still stuck at S3-4 in TGM1.. And barely S2 in TGM2. It just get tougher, and tougher.
     
  7. umbrellastyle

    umbrellastyle Unregistered

    These posts are really helping me out. Thanks guys.

    Is there a guide that explains some of the basic strategies of 20G with Sega rotation? From the videos I've watched, stack building is quite a bit different than regular play.


    Also, is there a way to turn off the ghost piece in Heboris? I can't seem to find the option...
     
  8. sihumchai

    sihumchai Unregistered


    I'm not sure if there's a way to turn the ghost piece off, but if I'm not mistaken, the ghost piece will disappear when level gets higher.


    Below are the links to the 20G builds. It's in japanese, so I'll help you figure out what it means.


    http://www13.plala.or.jp/TETRiS_TGM/kouza/5.htm : This link explains why you should build properly and how not to 'suffocate' or get the pieces jammed into the wrong areas. Take for example the T-piece dropping into the center where that's a 2 row gap, note that even if you activate IRS, which ever orientation won't save you from moving the piece away. You'd have to be very quick, if not, it will get locked there.


    http://www13.plala.or.jp/TETRiS_TGM/kouza/6.htm : This second link shows you where you should position the pieces. If may look funny, but do note that Tetris, and it's 7 types of pieces, can fit into any and most places which may not seem correct! That's the magic of Tetris, you'll always find a piece to repair the damage.


    http://www13.plala.or.jp/TETRiS_TGM/kouza/7.htm : This final link shows you what type of IRS you should be performing, in order to avoid 'suffocation'.. Take for example, the first one with the L-piece dropping.. See that there's a hole where it's 'handle' will fit into.. And if you fail to perform the right IRS, it will get stuck, costing you time, and also due to the 'wallkick' rules, you are unable to rotate the piece. So what was performed was, IRS left rotation (so it lands on it's flat end), avoiding the hope, so it may move all the way to the left.


    Now, for the J-piece (blue), the first stack has lotsa holes, what was performed was IRS rotate right, rotate right, and right once more(total of 3 rotations). If you were to perform IRS rotate right, then left, you'd immediately get stuck(or suffocate) in one of the holes, that's why 3 right rotations were performed.


    PLEASE NOTE, if you're playing SRS rules, you won't 'suffocate' that much because the rules are simpler, for example, your piece gets stuck into a hole, you CAN still rotate it out, but in ARS/Sega rules, it is very strict, jamming is very common for beginners like you and me.


    http://www.tetrisconcept.com/tetriswiki ... ter_Series : I suggest you read everything in here from the japanese links, you'll need to know what button(A, or B) performs what kind of orientations.. Like S, Z's, and I's only have two orientation.


    A big hint for you when using I-pieces - you'll have to leave 2x2 space on the right side for it to rotate properly, and 3x2 space on the left. Without these spaces, the I-piece would not rotate at all, costing you a misplacement of a very good piece.


    Please note, that stacking in the centre isn't always gonna help.. You must always anticipate what next piece is coming, and whether it will drop appropriately.. There's a page in the japanese tutorial to teach you, where you should drop the pieces for the incoming one. I can't seem to find the page now, maybe you should look through the site.. But I can give you one example..


    Code:
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     4 5 (center)
    As explain here in the code above, by placing the I-piece over on that column, the Z-piece may not be able to move left because it is blocked, forcing you to lock on the I, or move away. By performing a IRS in whichever direction(A or B), you will land on the right side of the I-piece, meaning that, you'll never be able to get that Z-piece to the left.. But if you have placed the I-piece one column to the right, things would have been easier, or safer.. Here's another example:

    Code:
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    You will not be able to move it to the left. I hope you understand, and by perfecting this skill, you should have NO problem with 20G builds.. Good luck!
     
  9. Well, at least in TGM2, Normal stops at lvl 300. Aside from the slow speed, another notable change is the fact that it is played for a high score, unlike all other TGM modes which are played for a fast time. However, the scoring system rewards speed in a way no other Tetris game has to my knowledge, so you are still meant to play fast. Most TGM players ignore this mode because it is relatively boring. In TGM3 it was renamed Easy instead of Normal, and instead of score you play for fireworks. Basically, line clears give you different amounts of fireworks instead of points. Or something. I haven't played it myself so I can't explain it very well.


    As for 20g advice... Focus on learning how different shapes affect mobility. Especially when it comes to the I piece.


    With ordinary Tetris, you consider the creation of holes with every piece you place. In 20g Sega rules, you must also be intensely aware of how each piece affects mobility. Poorly maintaining mobility will directly lead to many holes, so this is extremely important. You have to learn to build in a general "pyramid" shape that is usually highest in the middle.


    Code:
    ....[]..
    [][][][]
    ....[]..
    ....[]..
    
    The most important lesson to learn in mobility is the I piece. For starters, it is essential to remember that the I piece rotates in the 3rd column as shown above. Try to build your tetris hole on the right, as it is easier to maneuver the I piece into a hole there. With every piece, you must be very aware of how the changing shape of the board will affect the mobility of the I piece. Eventually this will become second nature.


    This link covers some essential theory regarding I piece mobility:

    http://www13.plala.or.jp/TETRiS_TGM/kouza/7.htm

    If you only look at one link, let it be this one. And only look at the examples dealing with I pieces. Make sure you can understand every example. If you get hungry for more lessons though, the main page with lots of different lessons is here:

    http://www13.plala.or.jp/TETRiS_TGM/kouza/

    And you can learn a lot even without being able to read it.


    And of course practice will always set you on the right path. In fact, the only way to really learn how to maintain mobility in general is to log some hours under 20g. [​IMG]
     
  10. umbrellastyle

    umbrellastyle Unregistered

    Alright, I think I am finally starting to understand the basics behind high speed play. I guess all that's left is lots of practice. [​IMG]
    Thanks for all the help, and for not getting irritated from all my questions. [​IMG]
     
  11. sihumchai

    sihumchai Unregistered

    No prob friend, was bored at work, and happy to see new Tetris addicts coming in, as I too am new to the Tetris scene.


    Been neglecting practice due to Enemy Territory, my 20G on ARS sucks.. but I can play a decent vs. I suppose.
     

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